Enjoying the Food of Aizuwakamatsu

Like many places in Japan, Aizuwakamatsu is home to some amazing food. Its biggest claim to fame could be Kitakata Ramen, one of Japan’s top three ramen dishes, but it is also proud of its unique dishes such as Negi Soba and Bandai Katsudon.

In the final part of this three-part series on Aizuwakamatsu we will explore the food of this area. Make sure you check out part 1 of the series about samurai culture and part 2 about the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu before reading this post.

Bandai Katsudon

One of my all-time favourite dishes is sauce katsu, deep fried pork cutlets, on a bowl of rice, covered in a sweet sauce. The best place in Aizu to try it is at Jumonjiya, where they serve a massive version called “Bandai Katsudon”, named after a 1816-meter tall, dormant volcano that overlooks Aizuwakamatsu. This dish comes with two huge pork cutlets which are 450 grams each. I am sorry to say that I couldn’t finished all of mine!

Bandai Katsudon at Jumonjiya

Kitakata Ramen

One of the most famous ramen dishes in Japan comes from a small town just outside of Aizuwakamatsu City called Kitakata. This town is home to around 120 ramen shops, serving more ramen per capita than any other place in Japan. The delicious soy sauce-based ramen is known for its thick noodles, which are made from pure local mountain water. 

Negi Soba

Negi soba is a traditional dish of buckwheat noodles served with a green leek. The large green leek is meant to be used as chopsticks to eat the noodles. While it might be difficult to scoop up the noodles, taking a small bite of the leek while eating the noodles definitely adds to the flavour. A great place to try this unique experience is at Minatoya in Ouchi-juku.

Negi Soba at Minatoya in Ouchi-juku

Shingoro

Shingoro is a grilled lightly-pounded rice cake on a bamboo skewer. It is covered in a miso paste and topped with wild sesame. It reminds me a lot of gohei mochi, which is famous in Gifu. A good place to try this local specialty is at Ouchi-juku where it is grilled over charcoals.

Shingoro at Minatoya in Ouchi-juku

Sakura-niku

Sakura-niku or horse meat has been a delicacy in Aizu since the days of the samurai. High in nutrients and low in calories, one of the most popular ways to enjoy it is as sashimi. The basashi or raw horse meat is enjoyed by dipping it in spicy miso.

Basashi at Aizu Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan

Sakura-niku dishes at Aizu Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan

A great place to try it is at Aizu Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan, which specializes in Aizu horse meat dishes and local cuisine. The amazing dishes here are expertly made and served using traditional Aizu lacquerware to enhance to experience.

Aizu Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan

Aizu Beef

Aizu Beef with its wonderful marbling of fat is a Japanese wagyu that literally melts in your mouth. A good place to try it is at Shubukawa Donya, which was originally a seafood wholesaler. Located along Nanokamachi Street, this amazing restaurant is set in an Aizu merchant home from the Meiji period (1868-1912).  

Aizu Beef at Shubukawa Donya

Shubukawa Donya in Aizuwakamatsu

Aizu Beef at Ashinomaki Onsen Ookawaso

Nisshin no Sanshozuke

Each family in Aizu have their own recipe for this dish of preserved herring that is rolled in Japanese pepper leaves and pickled with soy sauce, vinegar and sake. This regional delicacy is perfect as a snack served with some of the local sake.

I hope you have enjoyed my posts about Aizuwakamatsu and they have inspired you to visit this historic and culturally rich part of Japan on your next trip.

Traditional Culture of Aizuwakamatsu

Aizuwakamatsu in western Fukushima Prefecture is known for its quality sake, traditional crafts and rich samurai history. If you have an interest in Japanese culture then Aizuwakamatsu is the place for you.

In the second part of this three-part series on Aizuwakamatsu we will explore the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu. Make sure you check out part 1 of the series about samurai culture before reading this post.

After the Boshin Civil War (1868-1869) and the fall of the Aizu clan, merchants played a big role in the rebirth of the area and its traditional culture. Industries that were first established by the samurai of the Aizu clan such as sake brewing and lacquerware were revived by local merchants, where they flourished and gained recognition across the country. Let’s take a look at some of the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu.

Aizu Lacquerware

Aizu lacquerware has a history that dates back over 600 years and was spurred on by the support of samurai warlord Gamo Ujisato (1556-1595) as well as Hoshina Masayuki (1611-1673), the first lord of the Aizu clan. Lacquerware is a traditional art of Japan made from the sap of the lacquer or urushi tree, native to Japan.

Aizu Lacquerware Plates at Suzuzen

 

Traditional techniques and methods developed in the Aizu region are used to create unique and rare pieces of art. Aizu lacquerware is characterized by its glossy black and red lacquer and decorative patterns.

Aizu Lacquerware Coating

 

A great place to check out some of Aizu’s finest traditional lacquerware is Suzuzen, which was founded in 1832. Suzuzen started out as a lacquerware wholesaler, trading nationwide with the seal of approval from the Edo Bakufu (Tokugawa Shogunate). Panel exhibits at Suzuzen walk visitors through the history of Aizu-ware and the Suzuzen facility.

Aizu Lacquerware Furniture at Suzuzen

 

Today Aizu lacquerware is famous all over Japan for its beauty and durability.

Aizu Lacquerware

Aizu Painted Candles

In the Tensho era (1573-1593), local samurai lord Ujisato Gamo ordered artisans to adorn candles with paintings and a new folk art was born in Aizuwakamatsu. Seasonal flowers are painstakingly hand painted on the candles one at a time to create a work of art. This traditional craft was once the main industry of Aizu Domain.

Hoshiban Erosoku-ten, which was founded in 1772 was the official purveyor to Aizu Domain during the Edo period (1603-1868). The current head, Kazue Hoshi is the ninth-generation owner with the time-honored tradition of painted candles being passed down from generation to generation over the years.

This shop is the only establishment still in existence that adheres to the same centuries-old process for creating Aizu painted candles. You can find the traditional shop in the Nanokamachi Street, a quaint shopping street, which retains the traditional landscape of the Taisho period (1912-1926).

Aizu Painted Candles

Aizu Hariko

Aizu Hariko have been made for nearly 400 years throughout the Aizu area. It started when Gamo Ujisato, the Lord of Aizu, invited doll makers from Kyoto to Aizu. This traditional toy is usually painted in red, and is considered a lucky charm in the Aizu region to bring good luck, a good harvest or success in business.

Aizu Hariko

Aizu Sake

Aizuwakamatsu is home to many sake breweries producing award-winning sake that is known all over Japan. The local Japanese sake is made with high-quality rice and natural local spring water.

Aizu Sake

 

You can learn about the process of making sake by taking a tour at Yamatogawa Shuzoten. This traditional sake brewery was founded in 1790 with the current owner the 9^th generation sake master. They use spring water sourced from Mount Iida and organic sake rice to produce their amazing sake. 

Yamatogawa Shuzoten

 

You can sample some of their finest with some sake tasting in their show room.

Sake Tasting at Yamatogawa Shuzoten

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen Village

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen is an area rich in nature with beautiful mountains and rivers. It is home to an abundance of natural hot springs (onsen), which can be enjoyed while taking in the breath-taking natural surrounds. Located in the Ookawaso Valley about a 25-minute drive from central Aizuwakamatsu, it used to be called “The Phantom Village” due to its remote location.

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen

 

A stay at the Aizu Ashinomaki Hot Spring Resort Hotel will give you a chance to experience traditional Japanese-style accommodation and outdoor baths overlooking the Ookawa River. This is a great place to experience some traditional Japanese culture with kaiseki ryori (multi-course meals), shamisen performances and mochitsuki (rice cake making). The elegant performance stage at the hotel is said to resemble the setting of a scene from the popular anime, Kimetsu no Yaiba (Demon Slayer).

Performance Stage at Aizu Ashinomaki Hot Spring Resort Hotel

Ouchi-juku

Ouchi-juku is an Edo period (1603-1868) post town located in the mountains southwest of Aizuwakamatsu City. The remote village is a well-preserved example of what an Edo period post town on the Nikko Kaido Route would have looked like in the age of the samurai. This well-traveled route was used by feudal lords who traveled between their domain and Edo (Tokyo).

Looking down at Ouchi-juku

 

The village is home to around 40 traditional thatched roof houses that were built about 400 years ago. Many of the houses have remained unchanged since their original construction.

Ouchi-juku Wooden Houses

 

Ouchi-juku was designated a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the Japanese government in 1981. The traditional techniques and skills used to preserve the wooden thatched roof houses have been added to UNESCO’s Representative list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Ouchi-juku Traditional Houses

 

I hope you enjoyed this brief look at Aizuwakamatsu’s traditional culture and crafts. Please stay tuned for part 3 where we will explore the amazing food of Aizuwakamatsu.