Traditional Culture of Aizuwakamatsu

Aizuwakamatsu in western Fukushima Prefecture is known for its quality sake, traditional crafts and rich samurai history. If you have an interest in Japanese culture then Aizuwakamatsu is the place for you.

In the second part of this three-part series on Aizuwakamatsu we will explore the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu. Make sure you check out part 1 of the series about samurai culture before reading this post.

After the Boshin Civil War (1868-1869) and the fall of the Aizu clan, merchants played a big role in the rebirth of the area and its traditional culture. Industries that were first established by the samurai of the Aizu clan such as sake brewing and lacquerware were revived by local merchants, where they flourished and gained recognition across the country. Let’s take a look at some of the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu.

Aizu Lacquerware

Aizu lacquerware has a history that dates back over 600 years and was spurred on by the support of samurai warlord Gamo Ujisato (1556-1595) as well as Hoshina Masayuki (1611-1673), the first lord of the Aizu clan. Lacquerware is a traditional art of Japan made from the sap of the lacquer or urushi tree, native to Japan.

Aizu Lacquerware Plates at Suzuzen

 

Traditional techniques and methods developed in the Aizu region are used to create unique and rare pieces of art. Aizu lacquerware is characterized by its glossy black and red lacquer and decorative patterns.

Aizu Lacquerware Coating

 

A great place to check out some of Aizu’s finest traditional lacquerware is Suzuzen, which was founded in 1832. Suzuzen started out as a lacquerware wholesaler, trading nationwide with the seal of approval from the Edo Bakufu (Tokugawa Shogunate). Panel exhibits at Suzuzen walk visitors through the history of Aizu-ware and the Suzuzen facility.

Aizu Lacquerware Furniture at Suzuzen

 

Today Aizu lacquerware is famous all over Japan for its beauty and durability.

Aizu Lacquerware

Aizu Painted Candles

In the Tensho era (1573-1593), local samurai lord Ujisato Gamo ordered artisans to adorn candles with paintings and a new folk art was born in Aizuwakamatsu. Seasonal flowers are painstakingly hand painted on the candles one at a time to create a work of art. This traditional craft was once the main industry of Aizu Domain.

Hoshiban Erosoku-ten, which was founded in 1772 was the official purveyor to Aizu Domain during the Edo period (1603-1868). The current head, Kazue Hoshi is the ninth-generation owner with the time-honored tradition of painted candles being passed down from generation to generation over the years.

This shop is the only establishment still in existence that adheres to the same centuries-old process for creating Aizu painted candles. You can find the traditional shop in the Nanokamachi Street, a quaint shopping street, which retains the traditional landscape of the Taisho period (1912-1926).

Aizu Painted Candles

Aizu Hariko

Aizu Hariko have been made for nearly 400 years throughout the Aizu area. It started when Gamo Ujisato, the Lord of Aizu, invited doll makers from Kyoto to Aizu. This traditional toy is usually painted in red, and is considered a lucky charm in the Aizu region to bring good luck, a good harvest or success in business.

Aizu Hariko

Aizu Sake

Aizuwakamatsu is home to many sake breweries producing award-winning sake that is known all over Japan. The local Japanese sake is made with high-quality rice and natural local spring water.

Aizu Sake

 

You can learn about the process of making sake by taking a tour at Yamatogawa Shuzoten. This traditional sake brewery was founded in 1790 with the current owner the 9^th generation sake master. They use spring water sourced from Mount Iida and organic sake rice to produce their amazing sake. 

Yamatogawa Shuzoten

 

You can sample some of their finest with some sake tasting in their show room.

Sake Tasting at Yamatogawa Shuzoten

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen Village

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen is an area rich in nature with beautiful mountains and rivers. It is home to an abundance of natural hot springs (onsen), which can be enjoyed while taking in the breath-taking natural surrounds. Located in the Ookawaso Valley about a 25-minute drive from central Aizuwakamatsu, it used to be called “The Phantom Village” due to its remote location.

Aizu Ashinomaki Onsen

 

A stay at the Aizu Ashinomaki Hot Spring Resort Hotel will give you a chance to experience traditional Japanese-style accommodation and outdoor baths overlooking the Ookawa River. This is a great place to experience some traditional Japanese culture with kaiseki ryori (multi-course meals), shamisen performances and mochitsuki (rice cake making). The elegant performance stage at the hotel is said to resemble the setting of a scene from the popular anime, Kimetsu no Yaiba (Demon Slayer).

Performance Stage at Aizu Ashinomaki Hot Spring Resort Hotel

Ouchi-juku

Ouchi-juku is an Edo period (1603-1868) post town located in the mountains southwest of Aizuwakamatsu City. The remote village is a well-preserved example of what an Edo period post town on the Nikko Kaido Route would have looked like in the age of the samurai. This well-traveled route was used by feudal lords who traveled between their domain and Edo (Tokyo).

Looking down at Ouchi-juku

 

The village is home to around 40 traditional thatched roof houses that were built about 400 years ago. Many of the houses have remained unchanged since their original construction.

Ouchi-juku Wooden Houses

 

Ouchi-juku was designated a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the Japanese government in 1981. The traditional techniques and skills used to preserve the wooden thatched roof houses have been added to UNESCO’s Representative list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Ouchi-juku Traditional Houses

 

I hope you enjoyed this brief look at Aizuwakamatsu’s traditional culture and crafts. Please stay tuned for part 3 where we will explore the amazing food of Aizuwakamatsu. 

Samurai City Aizuwakamatsu

Aizuwakamatsu in western Fukushima Prefecture was regarded as one of the last strongholds of samurai culture when Japan made the transition from the feudal Edo period (1603-1868) under the Tokugawa Shogunate to the Meiji period and restoration of imperial rule.

Its strategic location in southern Tohoku saw Aizuwakamatsu flourish as a political and military center with a rich samurai history stretching back over 1,000 years. It has served as the seat of power for some of Japan’s most celebrated samurai warriors.

Today the local people of Aizuwakamatsu are proud of their samurai heritage and traditional culture which has seen a revival after the dark days of the Boshin Civil War (1868-1869) and the fall of the Aizu clan.

In the first part of this three-part series on Aizuwakamatsu, we will be exploring the samurai city and its connections to its samurai past.

Tsuruga Castle

Tsuruga Castle, also called Aizuwakamatsu Castle was the seat of power of Aizu Domain and the last stand for the samurai of Aizu during the Battle of Aizu in the Boshin War.

The Boshin War was a civil war fought between forces still loyal to the shogun and the new Meiji government which had returned power to the imperial court.

Tsuruga Castle, which was built in 1593 by Gamo Ujisato (1556-1595) was said to be impregnable with no blind angles and it certainly lived up to this during the Battle of Aizu in 1868 when it was attacked by imperial forces.

Tsuruga Castle

The Aizu clan, loyal to the Tokugawa Shogunate fought bravely against all odds to defend the castle against superior numbers in a month-long siege. Despite defeat and being bombarded by 50 imperial cannons, Tsuruga Castle withstood the attack and remained standing. On November 6, 1868 the castle was finally surrendered by Matsudaira Katamori (Lord of the Aizu clan), bringing about the end to the Battle of Aizu. 

Original Stone Wall at Tsuruga Castle

A great story that sums up the spirit and dedication of Aizu clan samurai is the belfry at Tsuruga Castle. The bell in the belfry was struck to announce the correct time to the people of the castle town. During the Battle of Aizu, it was targeted by imperial cannons but even under heavy cannon fire it did not stop ringing the correct time to the locals until the end of the war.

Tsuruga Castle from near the Belfry

Unfortunately, the castle was demolished by the new Meiji-era government in 1874 who left only the stone walls and surrounding perimeters in place. The current main keep is a reconstruction that was completed in 1965. The castle is famous for having the only aka-kawara red roof tiles in all of Japan.

Main Keep of Tsuruga Castle

Iimoriyama

Iimoriyama is a small hill near Tsuruga Castle that is famous for being the site where a group of twenty young Aizu clan samurai, members of the Byakkotai (White Tiger Unit) committed seppuku (ritual suicide).

Iimoriyama

 

The young 16 and 17 year old samurai who were fighting in the Boshin War against imperial forces became separated from the rest of their unit during the Battle of Aizu. They knew Iimoriyama well since it was close to where they lived, so retreated there to regroup. From the hill they saw what they thought was Tsuruga Castle engulfed in flames and believing the battle to be lost, committed seppuku. What they didn’t know was that the castle had not actually been taken and it was the surrounding buildings that were ablaze.

One of the samurai, Iinuma Sadakichi, who was the youngest member of the group, hadn’t received the training on seppuku, so was not successful in his suicide attempt and actually survived to eventually tell the story of the group to Aizu.  

Memorial to the Fallen Aizu Clan  Members

  

The heartbreaking story of these brave samurai is still talked about today by the locals. The story of their loyalty and devotion has become well known all around the world, with numerous movies and manga being made of their brave tale.

The graves of the 19 Byakkotai who died at that time stand in line in a memorial on the west-facing slope of Iimoriyama. The memorial site features tributes and gifts to honour the brave Byakkotai sent from all over the world.

The Graves of the 19 Byakkotai

Aizu Clan Samurai School Nisshinkan

The Aizu Clan Samurai School Nisshinkan was established by the Aizu clan in 1803 to educate the children of Aizu clan samurai. It was originally located west of Tsuruga Castle but was destroyed during the Boshin War.

The current site is a reconstruction built in 1987 in a different area from the original. It is no longer a school for the samurai but a museum showcasing what a school for samurai of the late Edo period (1603-1868) would have looked like.

The Entrance to Nisshinkan

In its day, the school was regarded as one of the best of over 300 Edo period clan schools, producing samurai warriors that graduated with an all-round education in Confucian studies as well as the martial arts. Subjects taught at the school included reading, Chinese classics, calligraphy and astronomy. 

Samurai Students Studying Reading at Nisshinkan

The swimming pond at the school is the first swimming pool in Japan. It was one of only two clan swimming pools in Japan at the time and was used by students to practice swimming while wearing armour.

Japan's First Swimming Pool at Nisshinkan

The school was famous for its size at 6.5 acres and educational materials. Students entered the Nisshinkan at the age of 10 and were split into neighbourhood groups, so that younger students could learn from their seniors.

Near the entrance, you can find a list of rules on display that samurai students had to learn before entering the school.

The School Rules

Gekimon Gate at Nisshinkan

During my visit, I was able to experience zazen (Zen meditation) and kyudo (Japanese martial art of archery) using bow and arrows that were the same size as the ones used by the samurai.

Zazen at Nisshinkan

We were also fortunate to see a demonstration of sword sharpening and polishing in one of the martial art halls. The master artisan is one of only two in Fukushima and expertly guided us through the technique needed to keep samurai swords beautiful and sharp.

Sword Sharpening and Polishing by a Master Artisan

 

I hope you enjoyed this brief look at Aizuwakamatsu’s samurai past, and please stay tuned for part 2 where we will explore the traditional culture and crafts of Aizuwakamatsu.