Samurai City Nagoya

Nagoya is an amazing city that a lot of visitors just pass by on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto. This fascinating city in central Japan with its strong samurai history has cultural richness and unique attractions that few places can beat. Do yourself a favour and step off the bullet train to explore all that this fantastic travel destination has to offer. 

Nagoya, the capital of Aichi Prefecture is Japan’s 4th most populated city and is ideally located in the center of Japan making it a transportation hub. It is a fantastic place to base yourself during your travels in Japan as it is easy to hit up on some of the country’s best sightseeing spots with just a day trip.

Recently, I had the chance to head back to Nagoya on Day 3 of the Samurai & Timber Tour organized by the good folks at Nagoya is not boring and Nagoya City. Make sure you read about Day 1 in Gujo Hachiman and Day 2 in Inuyama. The schedule was packed but there were a lot of fun things to do and see in Nagoya. 

Nagoya Castle 

Nagoya Castle is Nagoya’s most popular tourist destination and a symbol of its status as a samurai city. Back in its heyday, it was the biggest, the best designed, the most gorgeous and the best preserved of all the samurai castles in Japan. 

The southwest corner watchtower

Nagoya Castle was Japan’s first castle to be designated a National Treasure in 1930. It was completed in 1612 by the Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616) to showcase his power and to act as the first line of defense for Edo (Tokyo) against a potential attack from rival Osaka. The Shogun relocated the castle town from nearby Kiyosu, making Nagoya the capital of Owari Domain and one of the most important castle towns in Japan, ultimately growing to become Japan’s fourth largest city. The castle was the seat of the Owari Tokugawa Clan, one of the three branches of the Tokugawa family from which the Shogun could be chosen. 

The crafty Ieyasu had the mighty fortress built at next to no personal expense by placing the burden on 20 former enemy warlords, who had to complete the massive construction by sourcing and moving many tons of huge stones and construction materials. Today, you can still see the inscriptions of various daimyo’s family crests in some of the larger stones which clearly indicated where the stones came from. The labour and financial strain, prevented the daimyo from spending on arms, armour and armies, thus weakening them and lessening any potential for rising against him. No wonder the Tokugawa Shogunate lasted for more than 260 years! 

Nagoya Castle and stone wall 

The massive main tower was topped with two golden shachihoko and was Japan’s biggest keep during the Edo period (1603-1868). If you are keen to see the main keep in its current form, hurry as it is scheduled to be demolished and reconstructed in wood in the near future. 

The main tower of Nagoya Castle

Honmaru Goten Palace 

The magnificent Honmaru Goten Palace at Nagoya Castle was considered a masterpiece of Samurai Shoin-zukuri architecture. It was the most elegant, most gorgeous castle palace in all of Japan. The interior of the palace was richly decorated with gold covered walls and screens adorned in stunning works by the leading artists of the day. 

The Taimenjo Reception Hall

It was built in 1615 to serve as the residence and audience chamber for Tokugawa Ieyasu's 9th son, the first feudal lord of Owari Domain, and later became the accommodation of choice for the Shogun on his rare visits from Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto. Tokugawa Ieyasu was so impressed with the palace that he ordered a similar palace to be constructed in Kyoto at Nijo Castle. 

The Honmaru Palace has been fully restored to look as it did over 400 years ago. The recent rebuild was done using traditional construction materials and techniques and was fully opened to the public in 2018. One of its most spectacular rooms is the Jorakuden Hall, which was a palace for visiting shoguns. It was constructed for the visit of the third Shogun, Iemitsu in 1634. It is the most prestigious building in the Honmaru Palace with richly decorated walls and ceilings, and intricately carved and vividly coloured transoms between the rooms. 

The Jorakuden Hall was used by the Shogun when visiting Nagoya

Tokugawaen Garden 

Tokugawaen Garden was built in 1695 as a retirement villa for Tokugawa Mitsutomo (1625-1700), head of the Owari Tokugawa family, and second lord of Owari Domain. The garden is an oasis in the middle of Nagoya and draws visitors during all seasons to escape the city. It is particularly beautiful during autumn when the Japanese maples are a fiery red. The garden is designed in a style typical of daimyo gardens from the Edo period (1603-1868). Some of the main points of interest in the garden include:

Tokugawaen Garden

Ryusen Lake 

The center piece for the garden is surrounded by beautiful waterfalls, promenades, bridges, and teahouses. The best way to enjoy the garden is to walk around the lake and take in all the points of interest which are arranged near the water’s edge. 

Ryusen Lake at Tokugawaen Garden

Ryumon no Taki 

A beautiful waterfall based on the legend of a carp that leaped up a waterfall and turned into a dragon. 

Zuiryutei (Teahouse) 

This small teahouse on a hill overlooking the lake is connected to Oda Urakusai, from my previous article on Inuyama, who was the tea ceremony master for the Owari Tokugawa family. 

Zuiryutei Teahouse

The Kuromon (Black Gate) 

The main gate and entry point into the complex which includes the Tokugawa Art Museum and Tokugawaen Garden. Completed in 1900, the gate is an original that remains from the Owari Tokugawa family residence. 

The Kuromon Black Gate

Tokugawa Art Museum 

The Tokugawa Art Museum houses the magnificent treasures of the Owari Tokugawa Clan, rulers of Nagoya and Owari Domain during the Edo period (1603-1868). The museum located next to Tokugawaen Garden was opened in 1935 and contains more than 10,000 artworks from the Owari Tokugawa family. The collection includes swords and armour from the Tokugawa family as well as cultural items such as tea ceremony utensils, Noh theatre masks, and scrolls including an original of the Tales of Genji. 

One of the treasures at the Tokugawa Art Museum

The first room houses swords and suits of armour that are displayed as they would have been in a daimyo residence. 

Tokugawa armour in the first room

Samurai sword in the first room of the museum

The impressive Noh theatre is a reproduction of the Noh stage from Nagoya Castle. Noh performances formed an integral part of household ceremonies and entertainment for guests at the castle. 

Noh theatre reproduction from Nagoya Castle

The most famous of all Japanese handscrolls is the 12th century Tale of Genji. This classic work of Japanese literature was created around the peak of the Heian period in the early 11th century. The museum is home to a rare original copy of this legendary piece of work. 

Flat Noodles at Hōsa 

Nagoya is also home to some of the best food in Japan and can rival any city in Japan as a foodie destination. One of its most famous local dishes is kishimen (flat noodles). One of the best places to try them is at Hōsa near Nagoya Castle. This new restaurant serves a variety of kishimen noodle dishes as well as a selection of seasonal Japanese sweets in a Wa-modern setting. 

Kishimen noodles at Hōsa

Suehirodo Nagoya Folding Fan 

Nagoya Sensu (Nagoya folding fans) are one of the city’s traditional crafts with a history of more than 300 years. At Suehirodo, visitors can try a folding fan making experience next to none under the guidance of a master craftsman. 

Nagoya Sensu was created by Inoue Kanzo and his son, who moved from Kyoto to Nagoya during the mid-18th century to set up shop in what is present day Habashita in Nishi-ku, Nagoya (near Nagoya Castle). Since that time, the industry has been flourishing in Nagoya. Simply made with washi paper on a bamboo frame, the fans bear fine calligraphy and elegant designs. 

Participants can draw their own original designs on the washi paper and then assemble and finish off their own personal fan to take home as a souvenir. 

Making a folding fan via Nagoya is not boring

How to Get to Nagoya 

Nagoya is conveniently located along the JR Tokaido Shinkansen route between Tokyo and Kyoto. From Tokyo, it is about 100 minutes on the Nozomi bullet train (¥10,780). 

Wrap Up 

The next time you are in central Japan, make sure you get off that shinkansen and explore all that Nagoya has to offer. 

Remember to read about day 1 of the tour in Gujo Hachiman in Gifu Prefecture and day 2 in Inuyama in Aichi Prefecture. If you want to book your own epic Samurai & Timber tour of Gujo Hachiman, Inuyama and Nagoya, visit the Nagoya is not boring website.

Nagoya Castle 

A Stroll Around Inuyama

Inuyama is a historic castle town on the Kiso River only a short 30 minutes from Nagoya in central Japan. Home to two national treasures of Japan, Inuyama Castle and the teahouse Jo-an inside Urakuen Garden, it is a must-see destination for anyone interested in Japanese history and culture. 

On the second day of the Samurai & Timber Tour organized by the good folks at Nagoya is not boring and Nagoya City we had the chance to explore this historic town in Aichi Prefecture. You can read about Day 1 in Gujo Hachiman. Here are some of the highlights from my visit. 

National Treasure Inuyama Castle 

Inuyama Castle is the symbol of Inuyama, and one of only five castles in Japan designated as a national treasure. The castle was originally built in 1537 by Oda Nobuyasu, uncle of Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582), one of the leading figures of the Sengoku (Warring States) period and the first “Great Unifier” of Japan. 

View over the grounds of Inuyama Castle

The castle might be small, but it is packed full of history with the donjon as authentic as they come. The wooden tower is the oldest original still standing in Japan. The climb up the tight and narrow stairway to the top of the tower is worth it for sweeping views over the Kiso River and the castle town below. 

The National Treasure Inuyama Castle 

Jokamachi Castle Town 

The townscape of Inuyama still retains vestiges of an Edo period (1603-1868) castle town, making you feel like you have slipped back in time to the age of the samurai. The castle town, also known as “Showa Alley”, stretches in a straight line from the foot of Inuyama Castle to Inuyama Station. It is home to numerous historic wooden houses which now function as souvenir shops, restaurants and stalls selling all kinds of delicious street food. 

A stroll around the old castle town

Traditional wooden buildings in the old town

Miso Dengaku 

When in Rome, or Inuyama in this case, you must try Miso Dengaku. This local specialty is skewered tofu blocks coated in red miso paste and grilled over charcoal flames. At Honmachi Saryo, you can try 7 different flavours with a variety of different tofu, konyaku (yam cake) and toppings. 

Miso Dengaku at Honmachi Saryo

There is a beautiful little garden at the back of the shop where you can experience a bit of Japanese culture. I enjoyed eating my miso dengaku while looking at the garden from my window seat. 

The Japanese garden at Honmachi Saryo

Feast on Tasty Street Food 

The Inuyama Castle town is a treasure trove of tasty and visually stunning dishes, so make sure that you check it out when you visit. The area has some serious cool vibes about it with new trendy food and restaurants popping up all the time. Each time that I visit, it seems to be different with new tasty treats to try. It is also extremely popular with young people, who like to dress in yukata and stroll the streets to enjoy its delights. 

Enjoy tasty street food in the castle town

Goheimochi 

My all-time favourite street food is goheimochi. This regional specialty from the mountains of central Japan is a skewered rice cake coated with sweet sesame, walnut miso grilled over charcoal flames. The best place to try this local delicacy in Inuyama is at the Yamada Goheimochiten shop on the main street. 

Goheimochi via Nagoya is not boring

Inuyama Castle Monaka Sweets 

The Matsuei Honten Shop is more than 100 years old and is known for its cute Inuyama Castle Monaka sweets. The delicious goodies are a wafer filled with sweet red bean paste and come in the shape of Inuyama Castle. They are a tasty treat to enjoy with some green tea, or a fantastic souvenir to take home from your travels. 

Inuyama Castle Monaka Sweets via Nagoya is not boring

Kakigori (Shaved Ice) 

My go to summer treat to beat the heat is kakigori (shaved ice). This cold, refreshing dessert is shaved ice topped with a flavoured syrup, making it the perfect way to cool down on a hot summer day. The stylish Kami no Manimani in Inuyama has the fluffiest kakigori I have ever eaten. Here they serve a cute bird-shaped version of this Japanese classic in either strawberry or lemon Calpis. 

Kakigori at Kami no Manimani

Urakuen Garden 

Urakuen Garden just to the east of Inuyama Castle is famous for its quaint Japanese garden and historic teahouse. It was once the home of samurai warlord Oda Nobunaga’s younger brother, Oda Urakusai (1547-1621), who dedicated his life to the study of the tea ceremony. Urakusai was a student of the famous tea master Sen no Rikyu (1522-1591). 

Urakuen Garden 

The garden contains the early 17th century teahouse, Jo-an, which is listed as a National Treasure of Japan because of its unique design and history. It was originally built by Urakusai in 1618 as part of a temple complex in Kyoto, before being relocated to Tokyo, and later Kanagawa, before finally coming to Inuyama. It is considered to be a masterpiece of architecture and one of Japan’s three finest teahouses. The perfect bit of Zen is to enjoy some Matcha green tea and a Japanese sweet at Ko-an teahouse in Urakuen Garden. 

Jo-an Teahouse at Urakuen Garden

Hotel Indigo Inuyama Urakuen Garden 

Hotel Indigo Inuyama Urakuen Garden is a high-end lifestyle hotel completely integrated with its surrounding neighbourhood. The beautifully designed boutique hotel is inspired by the many cultural treasures of Inuyama which include Inuyama Castle, Jo-an teahouse at Urakuen Garden and ukai (cormorant fishing). The hotel features a natural hot spring (the only one in Inuyama), European cuisine restaurant and stunning views of nearby Inuyama Castle. 

View of Inuyama Castle from the hotel

The reception area has an impressive art wall featuring ukai cormorant fishing boats and their bonfires with the beautiful lobby offering fantastic views of nearby Inuyama Castle and the lush green hotel garden. My room had a wonderful view of Inuyama Castle and the Kiso River. The spectacular breakfast comes in a choice between Japanese or American and as with everything in this hotel, it was beautifully presented. 

The lobby at Hotel Indigo Inuyama Urakuen Garden

The reception area at the hotel

The American style breakfast via Hotel Indigo Inuyama Urakuen Garden

Iaido Experience 

Get into the samurai spirit by trying Iaido, a Japanese martial art that focuses on awareness and being able to draw your sword quickly in order to respond to sudden attacks. Here in Inuyama, you can dress in traditional clothing and experience this ancient martial art with real swords, allowing you to better understand the culture and art of a bygone era. 

Iaido experience in Inuyama via Nagoya is not boring

Real samurai swords at the Iaido experience

How to Get to Inuyama 

From Meitetsu Nagoya Station, take a Meitetsu train on the Inuyama Line to Inuyama Station. The one-way ride takes about 25-30 minutes and costs ¥570. 

Wrap Up 

Inuyama really is the perfect place to take a leisurely stroll to soak up the atmosphere of its historic sites as well as its chic food and traditional culture. Make sure you add it to your itinerary for any visit to central Japan. 

Remember to read about day 1 of the tour in Gujo Hachiman and stay tuned for our next article where we head to Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture for day 3 of the tour. If you want to book your own epic Samurai & Timber tour of Gujo Hachiman, Inuyama and Nagoya, visit the Nagoya is not boring website.

The National Treasure Inuyama Castle 

Step Back in Time at Gujo Hachiman

Gujo Hachiman is a picturesque Edo period castle town situated along the Yoshida River deep in the lush green mountains of Gifu Prefecture. The riverside town has many claims to fame including its traditional summer Bon dance festival, mountaintop castle, pristine waterways, replica food samples and local crafts. 

Recently, I had the chance to explore this charming town once again on a Samurai & Timber Tour organized by the good folks at Nagoya is not boring and Nagoya City. 

Here are some of the highlights from my visit. 

Old Edo Period Townscape 

Gujo Hachiman flourished as a prosperous castle town during the Edo period (1603-1868) with many merchants and artisans making the town their home in the historic district. The wooden houses and traditional architecture of this part of town have remained relatively untouched since that point in history, creating a feeling that you have taken a step back in time to the age of the samurai. This area is best enjoyed by taking a gentle stroll to soak up the amazing atmosphere and history. In 2013, the Japanese Government designated the area as an “Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings”. 

Walking along the historic district

Gujo Hachiman Castle 

Gujo Hachiman Castle is Gifu’s very own “Castle in the Sky”. The mountain fortress is perched high atop Mt. Hachiman, overlooking the castle town below, and when the morning mist rolls in, the castle appears to be floating on a sea of clouds. 

Gujo Hachiman Castle atop Mt. Hachiman

Gujo Hachiman Castle was originally built in the 16th century with the current structure a 1933 reconstruction. It is Japan’s oldest rebuilt castle made of wood rather than concrete and is one of the most beautiful mountain castles in Japan. 

The approach to Gujo Hachiman Castle

The main castle tower

Stunning view from the top of Gujo Hachiman Castle 

Gujo Odori 

The Gujo Odori dance festival is one of the three most important traditional Bon dance festivals in Japan. Held over 30 festival nights in the summer from mid-July until September, it is also one of the most accessible. The locals and visitors alike can enjoy dancing until late at night or even until the wee hours of the early morning during Obon in mid-August. Gujo Odori consists of 10 dances and corresponding songs that are easy to learn, making it an event that everyone can join in and enjoy. 

Lanterns for Gujo Odori

The traditional dance started over 400 years ago when the local daimyo, Endo Yoshitaka (1550-1632) organized a massive street party to bring all the people of his domain together regardless of rank or social position to harmonize and bond. What a great idea! 

One of the traditional dances at Gujo Odori

The music and songs for Gujo Odori are performed live 

The best way to fully experience Gujo Odori is to wear a yukata (light summer kimono) and a pair of geta (traditional wooden sandals). Take some time to explore the enchanting streets of the historic district before dancing the night away with the locals. 

The Water City of Gifu 

Gujo Hachiman is known as the “City of Water” due to its numerous canals, fountains, and waterways, which have been used since the 17th century by the locals for washing rice, vegetables and doing the laundry. The waterways are kept clean by the townspeople with the fresh water a source of pride for the town and its people. 

The Yoshida River running through the town

Sogi Sui Spring 

A local symbol and treasure is Sogi Sui Spring, which has been designated as one of the “100 Best Waters in Japan”. The water for the spring is fed by the surrounding mountains and it is used by the locals for a variety of different purposes. The spring is divided into four sections, each with its own exclusive use. The first pool is for drinking, the second for washing rice, the third for washing vegetables, and the fourth for cleaning tools. 

Sogi Sui Springs

Igawa Lane 

Another water spot is Igawa Lane, a 200-meter-long path with a waterway running alongside it. The crystal-clear stream used to be used by the locals for washing and cooling vegetables, but today, it is populated by a variety of koi (carp), which visitors can feed. 

Igawa Lane

Yanaka Mizu no Komichi 

This water lane is a symbolic spot of Gujo Hachiman and one of its most picturesque locales. It is the perfect place to cool off in summer and take a leisurely stroll along its stone cobbled path. The name “Hachiman” literally means 80,000 in Japanese, and along this stone path, you will find 80,000 stones that represent the name of the town. 

The 80,000 stone path at Yanaka Mizu no Komichi

Gujo Hachiman Museum 

The best place in town to learn all about Gujo Hachiman is the Gujo Hachiman Museum. Located in a former tax office which dates from 1920, it has informative displays on the town’s spring water, history, traditional local crafts, and Gujo Odori Bon dance. You can even see demonstrations and practice the dances and songs featured in Gujo Odori. The dance is demonstrated several times a day by the staff allowing you the chance to pick up and practice your dance moves before the big event kicks off. 

The Gujo Hachiman Museum

Old Gujo Odori posters at the museum

Interesting exhibits at the museum

Traditional Crafts 

Silk Screen Printing 

Silk screen printing got its start in Japan in Gujo City. At Takara Gallery, a retail shop and screen-printing studio, visitors can try printing their own colorful tenugui towel, which they can then take home as a souvenir. Workshops are available in English with the kind and friendly staff making the experience one to remember. 

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Geta 

One of the most important items along with a tenugui for doing Gujo Odori are geta. These traditional wooden sandals make the unique sound of Gujo Odori as they scrape the ground during the dance and are an important cultural heritage of Gujo Hachiman. You can pick up a pair at the Gujo Mokuri Geta Shop on the main street to take home or use for the dance. 

Geta at Gujo Mokuri

Local Food 

Soba Noodles 

Like most places in Japan, anywhere with good water is bound to have great tasting soba and Gujo Hachiman is no different. At Soba Sho Matsui, the soba noodles are freshly made using the local spring water. We had a choice of two cold soba noodle dishes (wasabi or grated daikon) to enjoy for lunch on the hot summer’s day of our visit. The noodles were cool, refreshing and hit the spot! 

Soba Noodles at Soba Sho Matsui

Hoba Miso 

Another delicacy of this part of Japan is Hoba Miso (beef and vegetables grilled with miso soybean paste on a magnolia leaf). This tasty dish originates from the Hida Takayama area of Gifu. 

Hoba Miso at Shinbashitei

Keichan 

This local chicken dish features chicken marinated in either soy sauce or miso which is grilled with vegetables on a hot plate. 

Keichan Chicken via Nagoya is not boring

You can try both Hoba Miso and Keichan at the traditional Japanese restaurant, Shinbashitei, which is conveniently located next to the Shinbashi Bridge near the Gujo Hachiman Old Government Building Memorial Hall, which serves as the tourist information center as well as a souvenir shop. 

Shinbashitei restaurant 

Food Samples 

Did you know that Gujo Hachiman is the birthplace of those cool plastic food samples that you see in restaurant windows across Japan? The small town produces over 60% of all food replicas found in Japan, and you can try your hand at making one at Sample Kobo. Here, visitors can buy a food replica souvenir or join a workshop for a hands-on experience of creating a piece of tempura or a cup of ice cream. 

How to Get to Gujo Hachiman 

From Nagoya Station, take the JR Tokaido Line to JR Gifu Station. The easiest way to get to Gujo Hachiman from JR Gifu Station is via a highway bus which costs ¥1,550 (one-way) from Gifu. 

Wrap Up 

Gujo Hachiman is an authentic small town in Japan that offers visitors a rare opportunity to see, experience, and be part of, a traditional way of life that has changed little in centuries. Watch out for our next article where we head to Inuyama in Aichi Prefecture for day 2 of the tour followed by day 3 in Nagoya. If you want to book your own epic Samurai & Timber tour of Gujo Hachiman, Inuyama and Nagoya, visit the Nagoya is not boring website.

The riverside town of Gujo Hachiman